Versace AW11 - Milan Fashion Week 2011

On Sunday, Donatella Versace presented a baroque/military-influenced AW11 collection. We can always rely on Versace to deliver drama and decadence and this collection did just that. Set in the sumptuous tented garden where her late brother Gianni always showed, a star-studded guest list took to their seats for some high-octane Versace style glamour.

The label’s signature Medusa swirls were enlarged and simplified into a statement, single curled vine that was all over the runway as well as the collection. It was a refreshing move on for the brand’s logo. Distinctive prints appeared on military style shift dresses of rich, decadent hues of purple and gold yellow.

Donatella said that the baroque aesthetic was the main inspiration behind the collection – “Baroque is a key element of the Versace history. And yet it is contemporary, and works for this moment in time. Baroque brings drama, but to make it modern I keep the line very clean, and used ‘pop’ colours” she said.

A punchy collection, aimed at pleasing their loyal customers, there was plenty of black (Donatella’s favourite) accented with flashes of intense colour. No expense was spared with luxurious fabrics, including python, feathers, felted cashmere, leather and suede creating floor length gowns and tailored double-breasted coats.

Despite it being the A/W collection, the dresses demanded some skin to be on show with daring one-shoulder and sleeveless dresses , however the look was more demure that previous collections, hinting at a more reserved direction for the brand.

The show was a collection of interesting shapes and bold hints of rich colours. As with all Versace collections, decadence was a key theme but was toned down somewhat by sleek styling. A refreshing collection from Versace!

Prada is perfectly innocent at Milan Fashion Week AW11

Prada’s AW11 collection brought a sense of innocence to the strong, womanly sophistication that the norm from big name labels. The influence behind this collection, according to Miuccia Prada, was “not a girl dressed like a lady, but a lady rediscovering her innocence”.  After SS11’s wild and brightly coloured collection it was a return to what Prada does best, taking clothes that we think we know best and rearranging them in a way that is slightly unsettling, yet perfectly refreshing. 

Like Gucci, the look the collection steered away from the 1970’s and went back to the 1960’s, resembling the silhouette of an 1960’s air hostess, with drop waisted, big button, mid thigh coat dresses and knee high boots – signaling an innocent, ladylike style. Aviation was a strong theme, with goggle-like glasses, short gloves and aviation style hats adorning the models.

The colour palette was a mix of striking versus subdued, with plums, greys and dark teals being contrasted again phonebox red and canary yellow. Coloured fur trims and coats added a real sense of luxury to the collection, further enhancing the chic, stylish women that Prada aspires to dress. 

The handbags were held tightly against the body by the models – clutched sideways, almost like children’s toys – and were featured in soft leathers, python skins and exotic skins.

Miuccia Prada, unlike most designers, says that she is happy when her designs are copied on the high street, as for her, fashion is about turning the ideas in her head into designs that will cover magazines, red carpets, offices and train carriages all over the world. The subtle sedate of this show is what Prada does best, and this superb show will be bought and copied worldwide. Despite starting over an hour late (“It takes a long time to make things charming” – Miuccia Prada) the show ignited a real sense of excitement and went down a storm.

What was your favourite look from the collection? Do you think the styles can be translated onto the high street come autumn?